As many of you know, I have been a surfer since 1980. Here is a sweet little edit by Patagonia on the physics of nose riding!
Richard Feynman happens to be one of my only physics heroes. He played bongo drums, did his tutorials in pole dancing bars, and also was amazing at explaining the extremely complex in a simple way, making him probably the best lecturer of physics. Now you can watch his lectures absolutely free on you tube! Here is his lecture on gravitation to get you going!!